Viticulture
The Barbera vine is very vigorous and capable of producing high
yields if not kept in check by pruning and other methods.
Excessive yields can diminish the fruit quality in the grape and
accentuate Barbera's natural acidity and sharpness. In Piedmont,
the vine was prized for its yields and ability to ripen two
weeks earlier than Nebbiolo even on vineyard sites with less
than ideal exposure. This allowed the Piedmontese winemakers in
regions like Alba to give their best sites over to the more
difficult to cultivate Nebbiolo and still produce quality wine
with Barbera that could be consumed earlier while the Nebbiolo
ages. Harvest for Barbera usually takes place in late
September-early October, usually two weeks after Dolcetto has
been picked. In recent times, winemakers have been experimenting
with harvesting Barbera later at higher sugar levels to produce
heavier, more fruit forward wines. In some vintages, these
producers may even harvest their Barbera after Nebbiolo.
Barbera can adapt to a wide range of vineyard soils but tends to
thrive most in less fertile calcareous soils and clay loam.
Sandy soils can help limit the vigor and yields. The grape
rarely thrives in very alkaline or saline soils. Like many grape
varieties with a long history, the Barbera vine has seen
mutation and clonal variation arise with different clones of the
variety found in Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna and the
Mezzogiorno. The different clones can be identified by the size
and shape of their grape clusters with the smaller cluster
clones producing the highest quality wine. In recent years,
viticulturalists have been working with clonal selection to
increase Barbera's resistance to the leafroll virus. A white
grape mutation known as Barbera Bianca has also been identified.
Winemaking
Winemakers working with Barbera have a variety of ways to deal
with the grape's high levels of tannins and acidity. The most
common has been through blending with varieties lacking those
components and creating a softer and potentially more balanced
wine as a result. In the 1970s, the French enologist Emile
Peynaud recommended that Barbera producers use small oak barrels
for fermentation and maturation in order to add subtle oak spice
flavors and limited levels of oxygenation to soften the wine.
The added oxygen would also limit the reductive quality of
Barbera and limited the occurrence of off-odors of hydrogen
sulfide that would occur in some examples. The polysaccharides
picked up from the oak, was found to increase the richness of
Barbera. At the time, his recommendation met some resistance
from the tradition minded Barbera producers but the success of
the "Super Tuscans" which introduced new oak barrel treatment to
Sangiovese caused many producers to reconsider. In addition to
the subtle oxygenation and spice notes, oak imparts to the wine
ligneous wood tannins which give structure to the wine without
adding as much astringent bite as the tannins derived from the
phenolic compounds of the grape. This, coupled with reduced
maceration time contributed to the production of softer wines.
Lower yields and harvesting riper grapes with more fruit and
sugar has been found to be a better balance for Barbera's high
acidity.
Wine regions
Northwest Italy is the viticultural home for Barbera, but
Italian immigrants spread it through much of the New World,
where its acidity is valued in blended wines for the 'freshness'
it imparts. Barbera is found in the northwestern part of Italy,
particularly in Monferrato, and to a lesser extent further
south. Nearly half of all grape vine plantings in Piedmont are
Barbera. It likes the same conditions as Nebbiolo, but the
latter is more profitable, fetching nearly twice, so is grown on
the best sites. The earlier-ripening Barbera is grown on the
cooler lower slopes below the Nebbiolo, and other secondary
locations. This explains why relatively little Barbera is grown
around Alba, where the wines are entitled to the appellation
Barbera d'Alba. Thus the best known Barbera is the DOCG of
Barbera d'Asti. The Barbera del Monferrato DOC - which tends to
be somewhat sparkling (frizzante) - is seldom exported.
Barbera came to Australia with cuttings imported from the
University of California, Davis in the 1960s. It has been grown
for ~25 years in the Mudgee region of New South Wales, with
later plantings in a number of wine regions, including the King
Valley in Victoria as well as the McLaren Vale and the Adelaide
Hills regions in South Australia. John Gladstones, in his book
Viticulture and Environment, includes Barbera in maturity group
5, which means that it will ripen at about the same time as
Shiraz and Merlot, and that it should theoretically find a
successful home in many Australian wine regions. Barbera went to
Argentina with Italian immigrants. It is quite widely grown, but
is used mostly for blending. As in Argentina, Barbera was
brought by Italian immigrants to Brazil.
Italy
A landscape in Monferrato
As of 2000 there were 70,000 acres (28,300 hectares) of Barbera
planted, making it the third most widely planted red grape
variety in Italy. At its highpoint in the late 20th century,
there were over 123,500 acres (50,000 ha) planted but fallout
from the "Methanol scandal" of the 1980s and the lack of a
driving worldwide market caused those numbers to decline. In the
Piedmont region Barbera is widely grown in Asti and Monferrato
regions. While there is no officially defined Classico region,
like Chianti Classico, the region of the Asti province between
the towns of Nizza Monferrato, Vinchio, Castelnuovo Calcea,
Agliano, Belveglio and Rocchetta is considered among locals to
be the "heart" of Barbera in Piedmont. In 2001, the town of
Nizza was officially recognized as a sub-region within the
greater Barbera d'Asti DOC. Being one of the warmest areas in
Asti, Nizza has the potential to produce the ripest Barbera with
sugar levels to match some of the grape's high acidity. The
wines of Barbera d'Asti tend to be bright in color and elegant
while Barbera d'Alba tend to have a deep color with more
intense, powerful fruit. In the Alba region many of the best
vineyard sites are dedicated to Nebbiolo with Barbera relegated
to secondary location, which limits the quality and quantities
of the wines labeled with the Barbera d'Alba DOC. In the
Monferrato DOC, Barbera is blended with up to 15% Freisa,
Grignolino and Docletto and can be slightly sparkling.
Outside of Piedmont Barbera is found throughout Italy, often as
a component in mass vino da tavola blends. In the Lombardy
region, it is seen as a varietal in Oltrepò Pavese with wines
that range from slightly spritzy to semi-sparkling frizzante.
Elsewhere in Lombardy it is blended with Croatina and as part of
a larger blend component in the red wines of Franciacorta.
Southeast of Piedmont, Barbera is found in Emilia-Romagna in the
hills between Piacenza, Bologna and Parma. As in Lombardy,
Barbera is often softened by blending with the lighter Croatina
as it is in the Val Tidone region for the DOC wine of Gutturnio.
In Sardinia, the grape is used around Cagliari in the wine known
as Barbera Sarda and in Sicily, the grape is used in various
blends under the names Perricone or Pignatello made near
Agrigento. Barbera was an important grape in re-establishing the
wine industry of the Apulia and Campania regions following World
War II due to its high yields and easy adaption to mechanical
harvesting. Today it is a permitted variety to be blended with
Aglianico in the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e
Garantita (DOCG) wine of Taurasi though it is rarely used.
Outside of Italy
Outside of Italy, Barbera is rarely found in Europe except for
small plantings in Greece, Romania, and the coastal region of
Primorska in Slovenia. Outside of Europe, there are some
plantings in Israel. The influence of Italian immigrants has led
to a scattering of Barbera plantings in South America, notably
in Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay. In Argentina, there are
nearly 2470 acres (1000 ha) planted, mostly in the Mendoza and
San Juan provinces. Australian wine producers have found some
success with Barbera in Victoria, while South African producers
have begun widespread plantings of the grape in the warm climate
regions of Malmesbury and Paarl.
In California, Barbera is one of the most successful of the
Piemontese grapes to be adapted in the state, with over 8000
acres (3200 hectare) of plantings. It is widely planted in the
Central Valley, where it is a blend component in mass-produced
jug wines. In recent years, the fashion of Italian grapes has
caused more California winemakers to look into producing high
quality varietal Barbera. Plantings in the cooler regions of
Napa and Sonoma have produced some successful examples. In
Washington State, producers have been experimenting with
plantings of Barbera in the Red Mountain, Walla Walla, and
Columbia Valley AVAs. So far these very young vines have
produced fruity wines with strawberry notes and limited
complexity and aging potential.
Wines
Like many grapes that are widely planted, there is a wide range
of quality and variety of Barbera wines from medium bodied,
fruity wines to more powerful, intense examples that need
cellaring. Some characteristics of the variety are more
consistent—namely its deep ruby color, pink rim, noticeable
levels of tannins and pronounced acidity. The acidity of Barbera
make it a valued plantings in warm climate regions where
acidification is usually needed. The color of Barbera makes it a
value blending grape and it was historically used in the Barolo
& Barberesco region to add color to the naturally light Nebbiolo
grape.
The use of oak for fermentation or maturation can have a
pronounced influence of the flavor and profile of Barbera.
Barrel influenced Barbera tend to be rounder, richer with more
plum and spice notes. Wines made with older or more neutral oak
tend to have more vibrant aromas and cherry notes. While some
producers delay harvest in order to increase sugar levels as a
balance to Barbera's acidity, over ripeness can lead to raisiny
flavors.Synonyms
Barbera is known under a variety of local synonyms through Italy
and worldwide. These include-Barber a Raspo, Barbera a Peduncolo,
Barbera Amaro, Barbera Crna, Barbera Forte, Barbera Mercantile,
Barbera Nera, Barbera Nostrana, Barbera Riccia, Barbera Rissa,
Barbera Rosa, Barbera Vera, Barberone, Barbexinis, Besgano,
Cosses Barbusen, Gaietto, Lombardesca, Perricone, Pignatello and
Ughetta. |