In Tuscany
Ampelographers believe that Canaiolo
is most likely native to Central Italy and perhaps
to the Tuscany region. It was a widely planted
variety in the Chianti region and most likely
was the dominant grape variety in Chianti blends
throughout the 18th century. The writings of Italian
writer Cosimo Villifranchi noted the grape's popularity
and that it was often blended with Sangiovese,
Mammolo and Marzemino. Part of Canaiolo's success
in the region may have been its affinity for the
governo winemaking technique that was used to
ensure complete fermentation. At the time various
wine faults would plague unstable Chiantis because
they were not able to fully complete fermentation
and yeast cells would remain active in the wine.
The lack of full fermentation was partly due to
cooler temperatures following harvest that stuns
the yeast and prohibits activity prior to technological
advances in temperature control fermentation vessel.
The technique of governo was first developed by
Chianti winemakers in the 14th century. This involves
adding half dried grapes to the must to stimulate
the yeast with a fresh source of sugar that may
keep the yeast active all the through the fermentation
process. Canaiolo's resistance to rotting while
going through the partial drying process made
it an ideal grape for this technique.
In the 19th century, the Baron
Bettino Ricasoli created the modern Chianti recipe
that was predominantly Sangiovese with Canaiolo
added for it fruitiness and ability to soften
the tannins of Sangiovese. Wine expert Hugh Johnson
has noted that the relationship between Sangiovese
and Canaiolo has some parallels to how Cabernet
Sauvignon is softened by the fruit of Merlot in
the traditional Bordeaux style blend. The rise
in prominence of Sangiovese herald the decline
of Canaiolo as more winemakers rushed to plant
more Sangiovese. Outside of Chianti, Canaiolo
role in the Sangiovese based on Vino Nobile di
Montepulciano was also declining though it was
never as prominent as it once was in Chianti.
The phylloxera devastation at the end of the 19th
century highlighted the unique difficulties that
Canaiolo has with grafting as many plantings on
new American rootstock failed to take.
Today there are a few vineyards
in the Chianti Classico region specializing in
Canaiolo, two of them being the family estates
of Bettino Ricasoli in Brolio and Gaiole in Chianti
as well as a scattering of vineyards in Barberino
Val d'Elsa. There are renewed efforts and research
in clonal selections to revive the variety in
Tuscany.
Other regions
Outside of Tuscany, Canaiolo is
also found throughout central Italy with significant
plantings in Lazio, Marche and Sardegna. Though
there are efforts in Tuscany to revive the variety,
plantings throughout the country continue to drop
and fell under 7,410 acres (3,000 hectares) in
2006.
Canaiolo Bianco
A white sub-variety exist, known
as Canaiolo Bianco, which is a permitted grape
variety in the Umbrian wine region of Orvieto
where is known as Drupeggio. In recent years plantings
have been declining.