France
In France, the Sémillon grape is grown mostly in Bordeaux where it is
blended with Sauvignon blanc and Muscadelle. When dry, it is referred
to as Bordeaux blanc and is permitted to be made in the appellations
of Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Entre-deux-mers and other less-renowned
regions. In this form, Sémillon is generally a minor constituent in
the blend. However, when used to make the sweet white wines of
Bordeaux (such as those from Sauternes, Barsac and Cérons) it is often
the dominant variety.[1] In such wines the vine is exposed to the
"noble rot" of Botrytis cinerea which consumes the water content of
the fruit, concentrating the sugar present in its pulp. When attacked
by Botrytis cinerea, the grapes shrivel and the acid and sugar levels
are intensified.
Due to the declining popularity of the grape variety, fewer clones are
cultivated in nurseries causing producers to project a future shortage
of quality wine. In 2008 17 Bordeaux wine producers, including Château
d'Yquem, Château Olivier, Château Suduiraut and Château La Tour
Blanche, formed an association to grow their own clones.
Australia
Sémillon is widely grown in Australia, particularly in the Hunter
Valley north of Sydney, where for a long time it was known as "Hunter
River Riesling". Four styles of Sémillon-based wines made there: a
commercial style, often blended with Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc; a
sweet style, after that of Sauternes; a complex, minerally, early
picked style which has great longevity; and an equally high
quality,dry style, which can be released soon after vintage, as a vat
or bottle aged example. (Hunter Valley Semillon is never matured in
oak.) The latter two styles were pioneered by Lindemans, Tulloch,
McWilliam's Elizabeth, Drayton's and Tyrrell's, and are considered
unique to Australia. Most examples of these bottle-aged Hunter
Semillons exhibit a buttercup-yellow colour, burnt toast or honey
characteristics on the nose and excellent complex flavours on the
palate, with a long finish and soft acid. Young Hunter Valley semillon
is almost always a dry wine, usually exhibiting citrus flavours of
Lemon, Lime or Green Apple. Cooler year Hunter Semillons seem to be
the most highly sought after, with some of the 1974 and 1977 vintages
still drinking well. The newer, fruit accentuated styles are
championed by the likes of Iain Riggs at Brokenwood and The Rothbury
Estate. Sémillon is also finding favour with Australian producers
outside of the Hunter Valley in the Barossa Valley and Margaret River
regions. The Adelaide Hills is becoming a flourishing region for
Semillon with the cooler climate producing some wines of great
complexity. Vineyards such as Amadio and Paracombe producing some
premium blends of the classical style.
Other regions
Outside of these regions, however, Sémillon is unpopular and often
criticised for lack of complexity and intensity. As such, plantings
have decreased over the last century. As referenced above, the grape
can still be found in South Africa and Chile. The latter is reputed to
have the largest plantings of this grape,[2] although the number of
acres planted with Sémillon fluctuates often. California growers plant
Sémillon primarily to blend it with Sauvignon blanc.[2]. There are
some wineries in the Washington State who actively produce Sémillon
for Ice Wine and Late Harvest wines. The grape is also planted in
Argentina, and recently in
New Zealand. |
